back to thinking about pork

We haven’t been here for a bit. Sorry about that.

Our baby daughter had major surgery, a planned surgery, but an intense one nonetheless. And so, we were in the hospital for a week, helping her heal, being amazed by her spirit.

Under those circumstances, we found it a little difficult to blog about pork, much as we love it. We didn’t want to give you a half-hearted attempt. You deserve all the pork force we have. We knew we’d come back with a renewed vigor once she was healed. (She is! Hurrah!)

So here we are, raring to share a recipe for these spareribs on Wednesday, and more bacon love on Friday. Next week, we’ll return to our exploration of different cuts of the loin, as well as a tour of SeaBreeze Farms on Vashon, our local pork producer. There’s even talk of a clam chowder with pork belly in our future. We have so many stories.

While we were gone, we read this story, on cooking competitions in New York City. And we wish we could have been at the Pork Off in Park Slope instead of in the hospital. Reading about it will have to do.

“Cook-off mania has taken hold in New York.

A dedicated follower could have spent the previous Sunday at the Park Slope Pork-Off, gone to a guacamole competition last Tuesday, then snacked at Monday night’s Cupcake Cook-Off.

The Pork-Off, held May 3, featured the expected ribs and barbecue, along with the Filipino stew pinakbet. But many of the 15 dishes competing demonstrated how ambitious cooks have become. They included pork cheeks with truffled grits, bacon focaccia sandwiches, and dark chocolate bonbons filled with pancetta ganache.

The Bacon Takedown winner, J. J. Proville, 26, showed up with a massive cast-iron skillet and a miniature blowtorch, and served up squares of pork belly, which he had brined, smoked, braised and pressed. “I’ve had to describe the process 150 times,” he said, ladling veal demi-glace over each portion. “That’s the most tiring part.”

Cook-off insiders were paying special attention to the dishes from Theo Peck (a country pâté served with Sauternes aspic) and Nick Suarez (a huge batch of pork-heavy collard greens and an even larger cider-braised pork shoulder).

For the Bacon Takedown, Mr. Peck cured his own fennel-flavored bacon, coated it with crushed pork rinds, and deep-fried it on site. He added tarragon-tomato aioli and homemade sweet pickles to each serving. It tied for second with Mr. Suarez’s sloppy Joes, made with eight pounds of bacon and 12 pounds of beef.

Mr. Peck and Mr. Suarez each discovered a kindred spirit in the other, and their rivalry has evolved into friendship. At the Pork-Off, they stood side by side as the winners were announced. When third place went to a fairly conventional sandwich, they shrugged in unison. They remained together as they learned they had tied for second once again.

The winner was a simple, smoky barbecued pork belly by Jesse Forster, who seemed a little stunned by his success.”

Now wouldn’t you want to be there too?

{If you click on the link, it’s worth clicking to the second page to see an incredible pig tattoo.}